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不再去海边 巴厘岛徒步旅行最地道_巴厘岛旅游常

时间:2015-01-16 16:11来源: 遨游深度:

大多数来到巴厘岛的游客从一下飞机开始,便能很快适应这个几乎全民信奉印度教,干什么事情都慢慢悠悠的小岛节奏,如果需要过渡一下,那就让入境处官员..

大多数来到巴厘岛的游客从一下飞机开始,便能很快适应这个几乎全民信奉印度教,干什么事情都慢慢悠悠的小岛节奏,如果需要过渡一下,那就让入境处官员来帮你好了。这些正襟危坐在柜台里,不紧不慢地贴签证纸、盖入境章的家伙会让你随着缓缓向前移动的队伍从开始的烦躁到无奈到最终的心平气和,对了,这才是巴厘岛节奏。

来这里的人一些是纯粹享受悠闲和消磨时光的,他们通常会直奔距离机场不远的南部,去享受Kuta曼妙的夜生活或隐居到Nusa Dua的豪华大酒店中;而另一些人则是冲着巴厘岛的田园风光来的,我属于后者,我压根对这里的海滩缺乏兴趣,而一直想着的则是沿着河谷去看看一望无际的稻田、再进入隐秘的村庄,如果能有运气看见远处的火山,就再好不过了。

巴厘岛的一栋房子

Sayan是乌布附近一处经典徒步线路的中点,它将这条路分成风格不同的两段,从小镇中心出发的前半段很多地方,即便没有公路,也会有平坦的羊肠小路,不难走,更不会迷路,而接下来的一段,将要沿着河谷边的山坡绕行,情形就不同了,不过景色也更美。

在开始从小路进山之前,我在前方不起眼的路牌上看到一个有些熟悉的名字:Sayan Terrace。在很多关于巴厘岛的旅行手册中,这是个大名鼎鼎的名字:半个多世纪前,加拿大音乐家McPhee Colin曾生活在此,并创作了一本后来很受欧美人追捧的作品——《巴厘岛的一栋房子》,这家隐秘的小酒店到底就是当年McPhee住过的老宅,还是为吸引游客借用了它的名字,我并不知道,连里边的服务员也说不清楚。不过进来以后,舒服的整体感觉和眼前的美丽景色倒是让我愉快,把接下来的徒步放在一边,先享受这里再说!

这是一处传统的巴厘式建筑,花园周围是高大的椰树,中间有个小游泳池,三栋二层楼的房子错落其间,一层是带落地窗的客房,二层是凉爽通风的露台,屋顶上覆盖着棕色的象草——这里随处可见的一种做屋顶的天然建材。整个院子此时很安静,能清楚地听到阿勇河谷的流水声。没错,大门的另一边就是阿勇河,换句话说,Sayan Terrace就建在河谷的半山上,而选择这样好位置的酒店也绝不是它一家,从这里眺望,可以看到很多,其中最抢眼的是远处林间的那个巨大的水池及一起的建筑,它被周围的树倒映成深绿色,那是四季酒店,据说是其集团在全世界最豪华的一家。

就在我左顾右盼的时候,刚才点的饭菜上桌了,米饭、几块鸡肉、一小份像豇豆的蔬菜,简单的午餐分别被香蕉叶子包裹着,其中的米饭被扣成锥形,它们一起装在一个盘子里,放在花园巨大遮阳伞下的乌木桌上,与当下的环境和眼前的景色是那么的融合。

徒步,就要多停下脚步看身后

问了餐厅中的工作人员才知道,原来我要走的徒步小路起点,就在Sayan Terrace的外墙旁。仅容一人通过的小路先是顺台阶向下,没多远后就是一个超过90度的拐弯,接下来是什么样不得而知。“你需要向导吗?先生。”就在我正犹豫是否要开始向下走时,一旁走上一个当地少年问我。“我想还不需要。”听到我的回答后,他便微笑着走开了,而我则开始下山。

从这里开始的路果真与之前的大不相同,台阶高高低低,台阶时常突然消失,被雨水冲毁的土路替代,两边生长着茂密的野生植物,下降角度不断加大,时常需要手脚并用,拐弯时,另一边经常出现几米高的断壁,我必须牢牢抓住结实的藤蔓,防止脚下一滑掉下去……好不容易走完这段路后,我却发现,自己来到了阿勇河的边缘,而眼前已经没有路了。

“你需要向导!先生。”刚才的男孩以比我快几倍的速度后来居上地小跑着跟了下来,此时他脸上仍然带着友善的微笑,但已经不再使用疑问句。其实旅行指南上说过这段路最好请个当地人当向导,而既然眼前的情形如此,我当然也就不再逞能。不过在此之前,我们仍进行了一番讨价还价,最后,以3万卢比(约合不到4美元)成交。

“土地是他们的财产,你需要通过,收费也是合理的。”说起他们收取游客“买路钱”的行为,他显得很能理解。“过去徒步的人时常会迷路,也有游客不小心踩坏了庄稼。现在,这样的事情少多了。”小向导Made笑了笑,露出雪白的牙齿。此时,我们连续走了若干段上山路,来到一片开阔地带。“这里是欣赏阿勇河的最佳位置。”Made示意气喘吁吁的我停下来看身后,如果没有他的提示,我还专心致志地同脚下的路较劲,而忽略了身后,就像之前几次那样,这是一处视野非常辽阔的地方,可以俯瞰整条河,河水比刚才更加清澈,也比之前的下游流动更缓,大片梯田后的房子隐约可见,梯田正在播种,充盈的水、嫩绿色的秧苗、一个耕作的人……河谷、树木、稻田,眼前整片的绿色,却又层次分明,水流、蛙鸣、拂面清风,让人完全感觉融入其中,恐怕,这就是最典型的巴厘岛田园风景。

百度一下:不再去海边 巴厘岛徒步旅行最地道_巴厘岛旅游常pk彩票邀请码

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